If you’re going to make mashed potatoes, you might as well go big. These pommes au beurre, or “potatoes of butter,” leave no butter behind, meaning you’ll use a ratio of about 4 parts potato to 1 part butter. It’s a lot, I know, but it’s what sets them apart from the other 5 gajillion recipes out there claiming to be the best. Given how few ingredients there are, this would be a moment to invest in some nice, high-quality, high-butterfat-content butter. Brands like Plugra or Beurre D’Isigny will really shine here. And on the topic of ricers, if ultra-smooth, restaurant-style mashed potatoes are what you're after, a ricer is imperative for achieving that texture. If a more rustic mashed potato is your vibe, feel free to skip that step. (Or, if you want the silkiness of riced potatoes but don't have a ricer, press the mashed potatoes through a fine-mesh sieve using a spatula.)

*Make ahead: Pommes au Beurre can be made 2 days in advance. To rewarm, add to a pot and reheat over medium-low heat. Expect to add a few hefty glugs of milk to restore their super smooth consistency.

**Cook’s Note: Mashed potatoes need a lot of salt, so don’t balk at the quantity I call for! Just be mindful of one thing: if you’re not using Diamond Crystal, start with half the amount and work your way up. DC is less salty, so you can use more.