I believe that a truly great bowl of pasta with meat sauce (ragù to those of you who keep it classy) is a year-round indulgence, worthy of the time spent simmering, regardless of the forecast. Traditional spaghetti bolognese varies by recipe in terms of meat mixtures and aromatics, but will always contain some form of tomato, be it tomato paste, sauce, or crushed whole tomatoes. This recipe takes a distinct departure, leaving behind the tomatoes entirely, and replacing them with a bright, herbaceous green sauce that gets folded into the ragu just before serving. It’s perfect for the unpredictable shoulder months when it no longer feels like winter but is also not quite yet warm enough to be considered spring. The green sauce here is pesto-adjacent–mint, kale, pistachios, and garlic. They’re blended until smooth and monochromatic, staining the whole thing a bright, vibrant green. Be sure to use curly kale if you can find it—it has a cleaner, less swampy flavor than Tuscan kale— and don’t be shy on the lemon. Acidity is key in a long-simmered, slow-cooked meaty dish like this one.