There are a LOT of focaccia recipes out there, and for that matter, a lot of really great ones. What this recipe, which took months to perfect, has in spades over all the others are truly gigantic air bubbles that rise from the dough and form into poppable pockets in the oven. This is the lightest, bounciest, squishiest, yeastiest focaccia I ever did taste, and I don’t say that lightly. Use a 10” cast-iron skillet if you have one; It will yield an even taller focaccia that's perfect for everything from tearing tableside to piling high with meat and veg for absolutely epic sandos. A note on cast-iron skillets: use the most well-seasoned one you’ve got, as it will allow the bread to release much more easily from the pan after it's baked than a brand-new one.

Cook’s Notes:

*If you’re not using Diamond Crystal brand kosher salt, use half the amount of salt, or you’ll end up with overly salty focaccia.

**Dough can be made either day of (as in the recipe below) or a day in advance. If making a day in advance, follow the recipe all the way through step one, and then cover lightly with plastic wrap and store in the fridge. You can pick up at step 2 the following day, letting the dough sit in a warm place for about an hour before proceeding.